Kalbarri Field Journal

Kalbarri National Park

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Walks and trails · 9 min read

Ross Graham and Hawks Head

The quieter inland fee sites — short walks, river access at Ross Graham, picnic shade, swimming caution, and the gorge lookouts you can still reach with a van hitched.

Editorial desk · Updated 2026-09-18

The Murchison River winding between sandstone walls in Kalbarri National Park

Photo: Kwokka3 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons. Source file · CC BY-SA 4.0

Kwokka3 · CC BY-SA 4.0

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Hawks Head and Ross Graham are the inland pair people drive past on the way to Nature’s Window, then wish they had kept for a slower afternoon. They are short. They have picnic space. Ross Graham actually reaches the river. They also sit on the part of the inland road system that still accepts a caravan, which matters more than the brochures admit once you have already been turned around at the Loop road.

The park is on Nanda Country. This journal is not Parks and Wildlife. Fees, fire rules and river conditions change. Verify the morning you go on Explore Parks WA and DBCA alerts. The park phone is 08 9937 1140.

The quieter inland pair

Kalbarri National Park covers about 186,000 hectares, roughly 590 kilometres north of Perth, with sealed public roads to the main sites. The inland gorge road is one system. You pay once for the day and can, in theory, string Skywalk, the Loop car park, Z-Bend, Hawks Head and Ross Graham. In practice the heat, the van rule and the length of the bitumen mean most visitors pick two.

Hawks Head and Ross Graham are the right pick when you want river country without stairs to Nature’s Window, without the Loop’s nine kilometres, and without the Z-Bend river descent. They are also the right pick when the van is still on the hitch and you refuse to drive back to town to unhitch for a twenty-minute lookout.

They are not a substitute for Kalbarri Skywalk if someone in the group needs a level path and a long view. They are not a substitute for the Window if someone wants the arch. They are their own, quieter, fee-paying slice of the gorge.

Ross Graham — river access

Ross Graham is the inland day site where you can reasonably get to the water without committing to a Class 4 descent. The walk is about 700 metres return for most visitors — short, formed, and still a national-park surface rather than a footpath in town. Allow twenty to forty minutes including time at the river. Shoes with a sole. The rock is uneven and heat soaks into it.

This is the usual start (or finish) thinking for people researching the 38-kilometre unmarked gorge hike to the Loop. That hike is a registered, experienced-walker expedition, not a family camp, and it is closed to overnight parties from November to March. If that is your project, read the Murchison River gorge overnight hike notes and talk to rangers weeks ahead. If that is not your project, enjoy Ross Graham as a short river visit and go back to town for the night. There is no casual camping in the park.

The lookout above the river is the part many visitors can use with less mobility than the scramble to the water. Surfaces still vary. The wheelchair and accessible Kalbarri piece is frank about what is and is not a level path.

Hawks Head

Hawks Head is a rim lookout with picnic space and a view into a broad section of gorge. The walking is short. The point is the sit-down: shade if you are lucky with the sun angle, a table, and a sense of the Murchison that does not require a descent. It pairs naturally with Ross Graham on the same inland ticket.

Do not expect a kiosk. There is no drinking water in the park. Bring lunch from town, take rubbish out, and treat the picnic as the activity rather than a prelude to a hidden long walk. There isn’t one from this car park that substitutes for the Loop.

Stay behind barriers. The sandstone looks solid until a lip crumbles. Children and the edge need the same attention you would give at Z-Bend or the Window.

Fees, towing and why vans can come here

Inland gorge sites use standard Western Australian park entry. Published rates at last check were $17 per standard vehicle per day and $10 concession, with a motorcycle rate and a per-person rate for large vehicles. A valid holiday pass covers the same entry. Coastal cliff sites south of town are generally free. Kalbarri Skywalk has no extra ticket on top of the inland day fee.

Confirm live numbers on Explore Parks WA and in the fees guide. Buy the pass at the inland entry station, Parks and Wildlife, or the Kalbarri Visitor Centre. This journal does not sell passes.

Caravans and trailers are banned on the Loop and Z-Bend roads. They are not banned on the roads to Hawks Head and Ross Graham. That is the practical reason this pair belongs in a van-based itinerary. If you later want Nature’s Window or Z-Bend, unhitch in Kalbarri and return with the towing vehicle only. The town as a base article covers where that actually happens.

All of this still sits on sealed road. You do not need a four-wheel drive for the public lookouts. You need water, a pass, and a plan for heat.

Picnic, shade and swimming caution

Ross Graham is the swim temptation. The river is right there. The water is untreated, the depth changes after rain, and rock platforms slime over. Inland air can be ten degrees hotter than the town forecast. A pleasant paddle on a cool winter day is not the same decision as a midday soak in January after you have already used half your water.

Do not jump from rocks. Watch children constantly. If flood debris, algal warnings or a heat alert is up, stay dry. Verify conditions with Explore Parks WA and DBCA alerts rather than a social post from last September.

Pets are banned throughout the park, including inside vehicles — 1080 baits are laid for foxes and feral cats. That rule does not relax because the site feels like a picnic ground.

How they sit on the inland day

A sensible order if you are collecting gorge rims: Skywalk first for the long view and the level path, then Hawks Head and Ross Graham if the van is with you, or Nature’s Window and Z-Bend lookout if you unhitched. The inland gorges overview sets out the whole road and a short-on-time pick.

Do not add the Loop the same day as a leisurely picnic unless the Loop was the 7 am start and the picnic is the recovery. The Loop is nine kilometres, Class 4, three to five hours, closed after 7 am from November to March. Nature’s Window is 800 metres to a kilometre, Class 3, thirty to forty-five minutes. Ross Graham’s 700 metres will feel trivial after either — which is why people underestimate the heat sitting still at a picnic table.

If you are choosing one short inland walk with river character, Ross Graham wins. If you are choosing one short inland walk with a view and a sandwich, Hawks Head wins. If you have time for both, do Hawks Head on the way to Ross Graham and leave the river for last, while you still have water and before the afternoon wind dies and the gorge becomes an oven.

What to bring and official checks

Water for every person, more than a picnic in town would need. Hat, sunscreen, shoes, a paper map, and the lunch you actually want to eat after it has sat in a hot car. The what to pack list is written for longer walks; steal the water and sun parts anyway.

There is no casual camping. There is no drinking water. Fill in town. Sleep in town. Meanarra Hill — about 300 metres of walking, 207 metres above sea level — is the near-town lookout if you still want a view after you have unhitched and cannot face another inland drive.

Official checks before you leave the bitumen: Explore Parks WA, DBCA alerts, the Bureau of Meteorology plus a gorge margin, and 08 9937 1140. The visitor guide is the wider frame. Hawks Head and Ross Graham reward the group that treats them as the point of the afternoon, not as a consolation prize for skipping the Window.

Frequently asked questions

Can you take a caravan to Ross Graham or Hawks Head?
Towing is allowed on the roads to these two inland lookouts. Caravans and trailers are banned on the Loop and Z-Bend roads. Unhitch if you plan to add those sites later the same day.
How long is the walk at Ross Graham?
About 700 metres return to the river and lookout area for most visitors. It is a short formed walk, not a gorge expedition, but the surface is still uneven and the heat is still inland heat.
Do you pay to visit Hawks Head and Ross Graham?
Yes. They are inland gorge sites and use standard WA park entry. Published rates at last check were $17 per standard vehicle per day and $10 concession. Confirm live fees on Explore Parks WA.